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Indie clubs ruined my life



A couple of weeks ago I was in Basel, in Switzerland, writing a travel feature about things you can see and do in the city. My friend and I went to a record shop. We met a bloke who told us about an indie club at a venue called Kaserne. Six hours later we stumbled into Basel's former army barracks and - lo and behold - the nice Swiss man was right. We spent the rest of the night getting fiendishly drunk and dancing to Ladyhawke and The Smiths.

In the course of writing a different story for London Lite - about the best indie nights around the world - it dawned on me just how much of my life I've wasted in exotic cities drunkenly stumbling around to the same songs I could have listened to in my house.

It's time to confess to an addiction: indie clubbing around the world. I blame Norfolk. Where I grew up, people had no taste. Clubs - such as they were - were grisly affairs were trainers were banned and not even everyman indie bands like Oasis would get a spin. Locals actually believed that if someone put a Chemical Brothers record on at Chicago Rock Café, the sky would fall in. It's hard to believe now, but indie clubs were thin on the ground in the mid 90s.

When I went to university in Leeds I fell in love with Star and The Cockpit - these cheap and cheerful places offered tantalising new thrills and a window into a world where you could actually dance to the songs off the Evening Session. With other people. When I moved to Birmingham, it was Ramshackle and Snobs that kept me happy on a weekly basis.

The next realisation was that, even when you're away on holiday, you can still enjoy indie clubbing. My worldwide quest for indie disco thrills has come at a price though. An ex-girlfriend yelled at me on the streets of Toronto as I attempted to thread our way through the city's red light district in search of the Phoenix. It was January, minus 3 degrees, and she was in heels. I was being an idiot.

In Paris, me and another ex should have spent the night cooing at each other and playing footsie under the table in a brasserie by the Eiffel Tower. Instead, I dragged her to the Bastille district and didn't stop still we'd found Nouveau Casino, slipped inside, and requested Cassius. I got dumped soon after.

Video: Friendly Fires, 'Paris'

 

Barcelona is a great place for indie nights. Mond was my favourite - walking through the door and hearing The Dismemberment Plan boom from the speakers sent a tingle of excitement down my spine. The Magic Stick in Detroit, Vega in Copenhagen, The Funhouse in Sao Paulo: these are just a handful of indie clubs that I've enjoyed memorably boozy nights out at.

Perhaps I should spend more time enjoying some local culture and local music rather than embarking on a desperate search for a scuzzy dive bar with a DJ who has the same records I have. But then again, in Paris you can hear The Teenagers, in Sao Paulo they love CSS. Local variations spice things up.

In the course of researching the story I mentioned, people fell over themselves to tell me about amazing nights they'd had at indie clubs abroad: Razzmatazz and The Sidecar in Barcelona, Magnet in Berlin, Vera in Groningen, Trash and Mondo in New York, The Viper Room in LA, Melkweg in Amsterdam, Popscene in San Francisco, La Cigalle in Paris. It made me think that there must be something special about these boozy evenings we have at indie clubs abroad. This is our Faliraki, our Ibiza. Sort of.

But does this obsession make us heathens? Is it the cultural equivalent of jetting off to Lanzarote for two weeks and slinging Asda carriers full of tea bags and beans in the suitcase because we "Don't like foreign food"? Or is it more to do with the collective experience - the idea that, even if you can't always speak to someone abroad as well as you'd like, you can still drunkenly dance along to Hot Chip with them?

Clearly I've taken things too far. But I don't plan to stop until I've discovered a few more great indie nights around the world. But now it's your turn - tell us about great indie nights abroad that have inspired you. And if anyone's got the same syndrome as me, perhaps we can start a support group...

Nouveau Casino in Paris

Brilliant!

Agreed!

-

'it was Ramshackle and Snobs that kept me happy on a weekly basis.'

woo.

there was a night called Goo at the Metro in Melbourne.

it's on thursday nights. had a good time when i went there. that was 5 years ago though.

Snobs is a dive but

if you like to trawl through the 60's the back room is still ok. I dunno if it's getting older or whether i am developing a fear of crowded spaces but i really get bored at clubs these days. I went to Ramshackle a few months ago, was bloody aweful.

"tantalising new thrills"

Is that what they're calling Ocean Colur Scene these days?

http://howdoesitfeel.co.uk/indieindex.html

would be as good a place as any to start.. foreign indie clubs a-plenty

Magnet is wicked...

Was in there again the other week. Rode there half-cut on my bike & couldn't remember where I'd left it when I came out. Took me about 3 days to find it. Great indie club though. Privat in Kreuzberg is better, however. If you can find it.

Mogwai tonight.....what a city!!

Valencia

used to be full of indie clubs, there was an entire road loitered with them. Every other bar was indie, I watched elastica do DJ sets there once upon a time.

The problem with Indie club nights in the UK is that they tend to be run and DJ'd by people who still under 21. As a result you basically get the NME/Radio 1 play list and they forget the classics.

Having said that after many many years of the Pav Tav in Brighton If I ever hear Joy division (not going to say the song but rock the boat and say they only had one song anyway), Blur Song#1 or The Smiths Big Mouth I have grown despairingly tired of the turgid gash that is the 'indie' scene.

The Leadmill, and Cockpit were two great places in the late 90's

Being from Mansfield

we used to swear by the Leadmill and also Rock City when the Basement was called Disco 2. Also a special mention to the Blue Note in Derby, where Jyoti White Town used to spin the likes of The Field Mice, Lush and Beat Happening among all the predictable mush. Barren times indeed but that's what made these places all the more special I guess.

Isn't...

this supporting a rather myopic approach to music and clubbing?

Nostalgia

Tupperware in Madrid... and some others that I forget.

how so?

I remember walking into razmatazz

in Barcelona and London Calling came on. One of the finest moments of my life.

Razmatazz = winner

'Indie clubbing' abroad is nothing to be ashamed of. See the culture by day, lay waste to the clubs by night. Obviously in a more dignified manner than that statement suggests... its a home comfort I reakons.

Theres something rewarding about finding a tiny dingehole playing obscurities that you would never have expected to find outside your close friends itunes playlists.

MANSFIEEEELDDDDD

rock city is rad so is the mill

MANSFIEEEELDDDDD

rock city is rad so is the mill

I'll

always remember walking in there and hearing about 3000 pissed catalans singing 'London Calling'. Boss night

"But then again, in Paris you can hear The Teenagers, in Sao Paulo they love CSS. Local variations spice things up."

Because you never hear either of those bands in an English indie club.

Where is Nouveau Casino?

Bastille area is a very decent area of Paris.

Also, Backstage in Munich is possibly the best indie club I've ever been to.

Debaser in Stockholm was very disappointing.

Tokyo

If your ever in Tokyo Hard to Explain and Mighty Pop are my favs.

MP is vinyl only Dj`s for those who like the authentic Dj experience. They usually play stuff you will be wanting to hunt down the next day if your not to pissed to remember the artist.

HTE is a bit more "mainstream indie" but love it as its not the usual dive bar. Its normaly a posh Jazz club during most nights

Ah

You never went to Underground then at Mojo's, or those great drum n bass nights at the Waterfront my friend...

Rock Bitch

used to play Mansfield at least once a month between about '94 and '96..

nouveau casino

--

nouveau casino is not exactly an indie club. they have indie gigs early, then kick everyone out and then it's rather an electro-oriented night club than an indie one.

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