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Been? Any good?
Only for a couple of nights, though as an organised trip away from Agadir (coming back though Essaouira) - stopped over in a western style hotel. A mate went and sang the praises of the riad he stayed in. Hustle bustle of the souk, Majorelle garden, scran - all good. Baby turtles and shizz on widespread sale, not so much. Overall: yeah, decent. And you get to say you've been to africa, which is well edgy, obv.
Don;t buy any weed, or anything that might be weed, no matter if the guy is threatening you or whatever. It is probably a police sting and you'll go to prison forever.
postscript: the friend of a friend who this happened to is still in prison. He was sentenced in 2002.
Stayed in a riad in the old town which was very nice. You get a fair bit of hassle as a tourist, but not on the scale of Mexico or India say. Only three places to drink alcohol in the old town if that's a concern.
It's a good base for trips to The Atlas Mountains too. The coast is not so far away either should you want some beach time,
Easyjet fly there now which makes it super cheap to visit too.
Overall, would visit again,
I hated every minute of it, dirty, noisy, hot, meh. I am in the absolute minority by holding this opinion, but I truly hated the place.
its mostly a shithole.
Casablanca and Tangiers in particular are horrible, horrible places which should be burned from the face of the earth.
loved it. if you can get out to the saharan dudes, it's worth it, i think a few of the hotels do trips out there. we stayed at a lovely little back alley hotel for £3 per night. they did a trip out to the dunes with a night's stay at some hotel in a gorge. i can't remember much more about it, but i'd advise you to go either way.
buy drugs (at the very least, you will be ripped off, at worst you will be escorted at gunpoint to the nearest military or police outpost and have all your stuff searched and anything of any value taken off of you). you are better off just taking what you need with you.
start giving it BIG TALK about police corruption when stopped and asked for baksheesh in exchange for not taking you to the police station, for buying drugs for example. (you will be beaten, then robbed)
accept the offer of sex from someone working in the hotel you are staying in (you will likely get robbed and possibly one or more stds).
accept the offer of sex from someone you just met on the beach (you will likely get robbed and beaten).
giving your and your girlfriend's passports to a guy in a carpet shop just because he asked for it.
pay the initial asking price for anything other than foodstuff.
Always have contact details for the british embassy on you, and some money for the police if you're up to anything remotely dodgy.
If you're a western female, it's likely you'll be viewed as a slut and dealt with accordingly. You will be hassled. If you are, feel free to remove a shoe and hit any molester on or around the head with it whilst making as much of a scene as possible.
Other than that, morrocco is just alright, if dirty edging on squalid, with mostly shit cuisine. Chefchouen (sic) is nice, but there's innumerable shitholes to travel through to get to it.
Essouirra is 3 or so hours on the bus from marrakesh and is worth a visit as it's relatively near and had the best restaurant i'd eaten in there, owned by a morrocan who'd lived in italy for years, east/west fusion, pity i can't remember the name.
Taxis are cheap as well but dealt with as minibuses unless you agree upfront for no other pickups (basically you pay fare for any empty seats), so you'll be travelling with strangers if you can't fill the taxi itself.
Other than that, morrocco is just alright, if dirty edging on squalid, with mostly shit cuisine, is something you can deal with.
It's your money. I've been twice. Won't be going back. Once the novelty of the markets wears off, it's just a bit dusty with folk trying to take money off of you one way or another.
Marrakesh is far less hassley than Fez or Tangiers due to there being large numbers of tourists trooping through every day. It might have changed since I've been but saying no to 'vendors' (shop owners, touts and the like) wasn't a problem there, got followed a couple of times by people in other places which isn't much fun.
M is probably a better bet for organising camel or horse riding trips into the sahara or trips up to the atlas mountains if that's your bag.
Essouirra is even less hassley, but there's little to do there but wander around the walled city, go along the beach then attempt to organise a trip somewhere.
You could probably score a cheaper apartment than a hotel in both M and E, which if it's a christmas trip would may be better.
In a HEY! TOURISTS! LOOK, A TRADITIONAL MOROCCAN MARKET! kind of way.
Fes is much cooler - bloody hectic, but seems much more authentic. Full of people going about their business rather than trying to bag the tourist dollar.
Essaouira is nice. Rabat is pretty cool. Safi is lovely. Casablanca and Tangiers are to be avoided at all costs.