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Is there a fucking trick to this? Or is it a knack that comes with practice?
The main point of a coping saw is that you can adjust the angle of the blade so that corners and curves are easier to do.
Yeah, so I'm trying to do an inside corner for trim because a mitre saw's no good because the walls aren't square, but I keep failing
A diagram, perhaps?
Right, so I've put in a floating floor, just tongue and groove (ooh-er), and now I'm putting on quarter round to cover the expansion gap. For the outside corners you can just cut it at 45 deg with a mitre saw, but this never works for the inside corners because walls are never square. Last time I did and just kind of bodged it over with filler.
This time I'm trying to do it the "proper" way and have one piece butt against the wall, cut the other piece at 45, then use a coping saw to cut out the inside and timber behind so it slots neatly over the first piece. But I keep fucking it up and having to cut another length of timber which is really fucking annoying.
But I've decided to be less of a perfectionist and let silicone sealant and paint cover over any sins. Will still look better than last time.
then using the coping saw and sandpaper to finish it
Because it was getting a bit late to be running the drill, but I'll give it a go with the other rooms.
Unless I take marckee/creaky's advice and go back to the mitre saw.
To be honest I'm not sure which is easier or gives a better result. I'm looking for that balance between as little work as possible, passable finish.
I think I get it. You’re running a bead around the edge of the room at floor level. So the coping saw doesn’t really relate to the problem?
If the corner isn’t totally square, then I’m assuming that it’s quite close. I’d probably cut the bead with a mitre saw and sand down and fill the difference, to be honest. If you’re painting it, no one will notice at all.
the room i am doing has loads of alcoves and protrusions :(
but yeah like markee says. \/ or measure the angle of the corner divide it by two and cut your beading to that.......you will have to cut it freehand unless you have a fancy mitre saw, but you can draw th angle on a piece of paper with a protractor and then line the beading up with the edge of the paper and then mark the line for the cut on the beading (Im assuming the beading is too small to use a protractor) and yeah....files and sandpaper are your best freind to make it fit perfectly art and graft will make up for any scientific miscalculation with the cut.....that and wood filler, Im using one that can take wood stain and that seems to blend in ok with the beading
expansion gap? tongue and groove? mitre saw? sandpaper? wood?
What are these things?
At least ^they all admit that they're totally square.
Oh, right... mitre. Yeah one of those.
like... a sky palace?
feels like we may be
And if fappable's helping to make it, no milk either:
How about a monthly wood work feature?
CharlieMortdecai :- Can you post up photos of the finished work?
But that's no doubt free, so sure why not. Mrs M photographs *everything* so that part of it will be sorted.