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does anyone here do it and can explain it relatively easily to me incl.what I need etc?
Or do you mean pressing ALT+Prt Scrn to capture your computer screen.
Actually CTRL+Prt Scrn does the whole desktop to the clipboard but using ALT instead just gives you the current window.
(do you think this has stuck now?)
I'm not talking backwards like a frenchy no more thankyou, theo ;)
but yes, art kind. TIM WHERE ARE YOU?!
its the set-up bit you'll have a problem with. i dunno how much or how easy all the shit is to get together? i'd probably start small with one colour to see if you can do it.
i'm no expert on what you'll need, but youtube is pretty good for things like this i.e. theres probably a video on there with someone doing a "how to" video.
or maybe find a studio/university that'll borrow you some studio time?
the actual process of doing it is fairly simple and easy to pick up, but I’m not sure how you get the set-up together really. There’s a lot more gear involved than you’d think if you’re doing it properly, and the cost would be fairly prohibitive, particularly if you haven’t done it before. There are chemicals, squeegees, inks, frames, and that before you get to the developing set-up.
But if you go down to the nearest art school or whatever I’m sure they’d let you use it for a small fee, and I’m sure somebody would take you through it – like I say, the actual basic method could be taught in an hour. Definitely give it a try – it’s immensely satisfying - and almost meditative - when you’re left to your own devices doing it, even more so than developing photos in a dark room or anything similar
try the universities websites to start with.
he has a massive press....I think it's relatively simple to learn but you need to find a teacher/equipment
check out this book:
I found it quite a good starting point and it tells you all about different set ups, from amateur to professional etc. But as Lucien says, you need quite a bit of stuff to get started and it could get costly. Good fun though.
A friend who knows a bit about it advised me the best thing to is buy a starter kit. I haven't tried to use it yet, but the instructions scare me. I was told this is the best place to go:
So, if you're wanting to do this entirely at home, it's quite a bloody palava.
For the basics, you need;
A squeegee http://silkscreenprintingmachines.co.uk/equipment.html
A frame http://www.amazon.com/Alvin-SCREEN-FRAME-10x14-12xxMULTI/dp/B001E0JFPG/ref=pd_sbs_k_14
Inks (any sort of arcylic paint will od, even really cheap shit like this http://www.artdiscount.co.uk/product/art_discount_acrylic_paint_in_500ml_squeezy_bottles/)
Screen printing medium http://www.artdiscount.co.uk/product/system_3_screen_printing_medium_-_1_litre_pot/
Now technically you could screenprint with just the above. HOWEVER I've only ever done it using photoemulsion which I'll come to in a bit. So, if you've got the above then you could get this stuff http://wickedprintingstuff.com/SCREEN_FILLER_%5BDASH%5D_SOLVENT_%5BAND%5D_WATER/Water_Resistant_Screen_Filler.html and paint the negative of the design you want onto the screen (so leaving what you want printed unpainted) and let it dry. The way I've always done it though is by using photosenstive emulsion http://wickedprintingstuff.com/EMULSION/Photocure_Emulsion.html which you cover the WHOLE screen in. Then you print the image you want to screenprint onto acetate in black (http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/9366/photo7xl.jpg) and you put the acetate and then the coated (but dried in a dark warm place) screen onto an exposure unit http://www.amazon.com/Printing-Automated-Screening-Equipment-Affordable/dp/B000GIP8US/ref=pd_sbs_op_5 It exposes the emulsion not blocked by the black design on the acetate and hardens it, you then wash the screen out which washes away where the design hasn't been exposed and leaves you with a screen which is a negative of the design you want to print.
You can do this at home by using either a strong lamp (>200w), or even a standard light, in a dark room/cupboard but you have to do a lot of trial and error to get the timing right.
The easiest way is to find a local workshop/uni/college who can expose your screens for you for a small fee then print them at home.
Anyway, once you've got your screen, you mix the ink with the printing medium (about 3:2 ratio) then blob a strip about 1cm thick across the top of screen. Rest the screen on a block (just off the surface off the desk/whatever you're using and use the squeegee to pull the ink across the screen ('flooding the image'). Then put whatever you're printing onto underneath and put the screen directly on top of it. Pull the squeegee across again and voila, a print. You really need to clamp the screen into place for this though as otherwise the action of pulling the squeegee across will make the screen slip.
Basically, you can do it at home but you need;
a) lots of space for drying prints
b) somewhere to wash your screen out (bath+shower attachment for tap=good enough)
c) a desk big enough to use for printing (+some sort of DIY hinged-clamp system for your screen)
d) an exposure unit/lamp/whatever
It's way easier just to use facilities somewhere else. especially to begin with anyway, once you know what you're doing it's easier to figure out how to botch it yourself at home (although I always use my workshops exposure unit to make all the screens).
This fucking text box is so small I can't be arsed reading where I'm upto or what I've left out here so I'm going to post this but it might make no sense, sorry. Hope this helps Lizzy!
I could have just 'this'ed what Lucien said...
and then you need to get the chemicals the wash off the exposed emulsion so you can re-use your screen.
however what i was wondering (and had heard off someone)was that if i was doing a more intricate design, rather than painting the negative space would itbe possible to try and paint the WHOLE screen initially and then effectively etch out my design after?
I guess you could once it had dried maybe? You'd have to be hella careful not to rip the screen. I can imagine it being a bit of a headache though.
As I said, I've only ever done it using photoemulsion so I'm the wrong authority for that stage of proceedings I'm afraid.
The intricatcy of the design wont effect how you apply it to the screen as its still the same process.
with the light-sensitive emulsion - the level of detail you can achieve is fantastic, provided you expose it correctly and you've got a decent-powered hose/shower/pressure rinser to wash out the uncured areas with. A few of us here in Manc (which I see is you too!) are setting up a small workshop over the coming weeks; drop me a line if you're interested on being kept abreast of developments.
and want to do it at home use stencils made out of newsprint and attach them to the underside of the screen. It's pretty easy to do, and I prefer the results to photo emulsion. You'll only need a screen, acrylic paint, medium, squeegee and newsprint. If you have the patience to do lots of intricate cutting you can easily do complicated designs with several colours. For example when I was at school I did a print of this:
You just need to have a separate stencil for each colour and then layer them and align them like you would with a block print.
Any ideas? websites, links etc
Knowing that a few of you guys had done it already and recommended it, I gave it a bash.
I’ve been experimenting for the past couple of weeks and I think I have it sussed out.
I was put off with the recommendation to go to somewhere that has facilities but I really wanted a go so I tried anyway… you do need a bit of space but I managed to do it in my pokey gaff so you should manage it.
Having no experience whatsoever, I just bought a Speedball Fabric Screen Printing Kit from Cass Art on sale for £40. You can get them from Amazon and stuff too - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Speedball-Super-Fabric-Screen-Printing/dp/B00251JO8G.
For the pale-eyed-badger… I was specifically inspired by this: http://wellmedicated.com/inspiration/50-amazing-gig-posters-sure-to-inspire/
All of the instructions I have read in this thread are great but the one thing I found difficult was the element of "trial and error". That wasted a lot of my time… cleaning hardened photo emulsion from a screen takes ages when you’ve run out of screen remover. For the record, a 50/50 water and bleach solution works. Use a nail brush too. Wear gloves… I got burns on my hands from the bleach.
This has already been explained really well but here’s my very simple process and as a result of making mistakes, I’ve chucked in a few tips I can offer for anyone who cares and hopefully make their first attempts more successful than mine… oh… and its not in the best order so read it all before you try it. I did all of this using the kit above and a couple of bits you can find lying around.
- Drying times are a pain so make your first port of call the emulsion so you can work on something else while it sets. In a darkly lit room, apply a thin layer of the photo emulsion to both sides of your screen using a squeegee (invest in a scoop coater if you’re going to be doing lots of screens). We don’t all have dark rooms but to do this properly I bought a 25w red light bulb from the pound shop, drew the curtains and worked at night. Make sure that there are no streaks in the emulsion and make sure it’s not too thick (I ruined my first two by applying too much emulsion; while it dries, it gathers into pools and you end up with big, unwanted polka dot patterns on your screen). Leave it in a completely dark cupboard to dry for a couple of hours. Its really important that it doesn’t come in contact with light, so if you’re gonna leave one to dry overnight, make sure that the sun won’t sneak through cracks in your cupboard door and expose your screens. I had to learn the hard way but to fix it I just taped around the cupboard door.
- While that’s drying, you can set up your exposure unit. You can do this in normal light but you’re gonna need to be able to revert back to darkness when your screen is dry so bear that in mind…
After making a light-proof box and still over-exposing my screens I found it more effective to simply work on my dining room table. Cover the table with black paper or fabric; it needs to be black and non-reflective. This is to stop light bouncing back up and exposing your screen too much. Next, you place your screen on top of the black paper (squeegee side down). Place your artwork on the screen (remember that you’ll be pushing the ink through the other side so your artwork should be reversed)… for your artwork, you need to have black marks on acetate… you could draw on the acetate with a sharpie or whatever. I used a lazerprinter, a photocopier is just as good. The black marks have to be opaque. If you’re printing to acetate, I’d recommend making two or three prints and sticking them together to ensure the relevant parts do not allow light through. Once your artwork is in place, you should cover the screen with a piece of glass or perspex to hold the acetate in place (I got a piece of glass from a painting hung on my wall)… if it moves, your screen will be blurry and shit so use the glass. The next thing is to set up your light… there are loads of different light combinations you can use to introduce UV to your emulsion… the sun is obviously a good one but unreliable and intimidating so I haven’t dared yet. Many people have many different methods. Mine works, I’ve used it successfully three times now and I didn’t have to buy new lamps or photoflood bulbs or any of that pro stuff. Again, from the pound shop, I bought a pack of four 100w Clear Glass light bulbs (not pearl ones - clear) and a pack of six aluminium pie tins. Pull apart a lamp you have lying around and make a flood cone out of a pie tin. Using whatever means you have available (I used a fold-up mini step-ladder) rig up your 100w lightbulb/pie-tin combo so that it is twelve inches above the center of the screen (12” from the screen and not 12” from the table) and it casts light across the whole screen “evenly”. With your screen/acetate/glass sandwich in place, turn on the 100w bulb and leave it for one hour. No more, no less. One hour. (More powerful bulbs equal shorter exposure times… you can apparently expose a screen in the sun in 45seconds… if you want to experiment, try it.)
- Now the lamp is off, continue to work in dim/safe light, you’re about to wash your screen… don’t do what I did and take your screen into the garden to blast it with the hose in daylight… after you’ve spent ages applying emulsion, drying it, rigging your lamp and exposing for another hour, you’ll want to kill yourself after you realise walking into the sun for 30 seconds will completely over expose all the parts of your screen and you’ll have to start from scratch. Instead, take your exposed screen and put it in an opaque black bin liner, take it to your bathroom, keeping it as dark as possible and wash it down with cold water from your shower… a little pressure at first and then a bit more… the right amount of pressure will knock out all of the emulsion that has not been exposed to light whilst the bits that have, will remain hard and stick to the screen. If you don’t have a shower, you can use an old mr muscle spray bottle… I bought two empty ones from the gardening section of my local pound shop. Once you’ve washed out all of the unexposed emulsion, you can turn on any light you so wish. Let the screen dry fully overnight… DON’T use a hair dryer!!! I got impatient and melted holes in a screen.
- Before you print, mask off all the edges of your screen… if ink bleeds through, your prints are fucked. If you’re gonna print on tee shirts, iron them first and place a piece of card inside them so the ink doesn’t leak through to the back side of the shirt.
If you don’t have screen clamps, printing is easier with two people… one “clean” hands and one “dirty” hands. Do a test print first on a piece of plain paper to see if there are any imperfections before you start on a t shirt. Clean hands can apply pressure to the screen to hold it in place.
Werk has covered all of the actual printing bit so I don’t need to repeat it but yeah… with that kit, the above method works for exposing screens. The only addition I’d give is to make sure you keep an eye on your prints… if you start to notice major blobs or imperfections, something is wrong and as much as it may be a pain in the arse, just clean your screen with water, wait for it to dry and start printing again later. Oh, also… you might find it cheaper to buy ready-made inks rather than medium and pigment. If you’re printing on dark colours, you need opaque inks.
Here’s a shot of my “exposure unit” - excuse the poor quality… its from my phone - and forgive the indirect jag.
And here’s a couple of the prints I did…
This method allows for really fine details so I’d definitely recommend it.
My next challenge is to break down the layers of a colour image into 4 screens and print CMYK halftones. I am hella excited about the prospect. Nerd alert.
You might like this http://media.photobucket.com/image/arcade%20fire%20screen%20print/jessemallon/aracdefireposter.png and this - http://greyhaas.com/files/gimgs/4_kaleidoscope-print-small.jpg
Anyone got examples of their prints they can share?
Right… back to work.
I've been trying to sort out CMYK halftones - here's my latest attempt which, I think, it's pretty much there. This is only SRA4 though and I want to do them BIG - http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs338.ash1/29056_404218887069_506752069_4142313_1769563_n.jpg
Other screenprints I've done recently (which aren't as exciting to be fair) are;
Damn good job on setting it up yourself! I'd been meaning to do it for ages but it ended up working out more expensive (the place I do it at is a pittance, I can expose my screen using a photocopy on normal paper and it's just well quick. Those CMYK skulls up there took me 2 hours from printing off the thing, coating the screen etc to walking out with 15 prints. all for £6!)
Those pictures are brilliant man. They're both humbling and inspirational in equal measure. The skull is very, very impressive. I am blown away... that satchel is awesome too! And I love The Sting!!!!
I am truly impressed. Really.
I have a couple of questions if you'd humour me?
1 - Where the fuck is this magical place you go to? Tell me its in London?!
2 - What software are you using to separate your colours and what is your process/settings etc? I'd love to learn from someone who has mad skills.
3 - How do you deal with registration on four colour work that needs to be so precise?
I feel a mug showing lame first attempts at one-colour prints now I've seen those pictures. Its a mega-jag but i'd like to show you this from one design nerd to another... bear in mind that my design chops are not taught by any other than Google and helpful forum members and my technical skills the same, have a look at this and lemme know what you think? http://vimeo.com/11814184
1. I'm afraid it's in Leeds. However there is the East London Print Club who (if you've not checked em out) might be worth a look - I can't say I've checked 'em out properly either but heard good things and saw some stuff they'd done which was pretty damn impressive. www.printclublondon.com
2. Photoshop CS2 (God, I need to upgrade). Set to CMYK, go to channels (by the layers palette) - split channels (from drop down menu) - halftone each layer at 80 lines per inch (this is rather tiny halftone though bear in mind - I started doing 15-20 lines per inch) - set the angles to cyan=75, magenta=15, yellow=105, black=45 on each layer then voila! I actually need to chat to a guy who's coming down to my workshop to help tutor us on this stuff and see if this is the best way to do it as I reckon there must be a way of getting a much better colour saturation than I've got on that skull one.
3. With that skull one, because the shape is so distinctive, it's almost impossible to line up wonky. This is the advantage of using a silkscreen bed as it has under-suction to hold the paper in place when you pull the screen-arm down and, most importantly, you lay a sheet of acetate (which is stuck down on one side with parcel tape) and print on that first, then because your screen is clamped in the screen-arm you can put the paper/print under the acetate, line it up where you want then move the acetate and pull the screen-arm down and print and it (in theory) will come out right. You could totally emulate this at home though, you'd just have to come up with some sort of hinged clamp for your screen so it wouldn't move then just print on acetate first, line it up and away you go.
Perhaps I should PM you my email so we can carry on talking about this and not spam up the DIS board. There's discussions about whether milk is food or not to be had dammit!
Oh, and while I'm here WHAT THE FUCK IS THAT VIDEO HOLY SHITTING CRIKEY? WHAT?! I don't even quite understand what it is you've made there but I know I want one. Me and y girlfriend have been trying to do some circuit bending and kind of given up cos we're stupid, THAT IS SOME SERIOUS SHIT. I...Wuhh... WHAT? Not to be rude but are you minted?? where'dya get all that shiz from?!?
here is meant to denote some massive admiration which perhaps doesn't come across as I'm too busy being confused by what the fuck you're doing!!!!
The reason my place is so cheap is 'cos they've got all the equipment, which is the advantage of going to a workshop. There's a proper UV light-bed so I can adjust the light-units really specifically so I can basically use anything for my transparency. Also got some massive heated drying drawers so from coating your screen it's dry in 20-30 mins and after washing the ink off it dries in about 5 mins. The whole process is easy and they only charge £3 per screen for emulsion. It's also technically £3/hour to print there but they gave me 30 free hours as a grant because I'm ace, haha.
where is the amazing place in Leeds you get your prints done, I really want to find somewhere to be able to print my band t-shirts up myself and I don't have space at home. I'm based in Leeds so it'd be awesome!